Jimnny 20 Passes Challenge: Road Trip 5

Snuffing, Stargazing & Skinny dipping

This weekend, we would tackle Ouberg Pass. It is a pass we have done before, but one we were also most excited for as it takes us back to one of our all-time favourite places - Tankwa Karoo.

This was a one-night trip of 695 km. Or so it was supposed to be...

Check out this map to see our route.

Road trip 5- Day 1 

On the road to Sutherland

Mid-morning on Sunday, we head off on the N1 and at Matjiesfontein, take the R354 towards Sutherland. We make good progress during the day with a brief stop in Worcester for a quick supply run.

As we near Sutherland, we of course pull out our trusty "On Route in South Africa" to see what fun facts there are to learn about this little place.

Sutherland is well known as the home of SALT - Southern Africa’s Largest Telescope and a spectacular place for stargazing.

What we didn’t know is that it is also home to an Extinct Volcano, Salpeterkop. We may or may not have gotten distracted as we drove by. But we think the person telling us “it’s just over there, you won’t miss it” was probably exaggerating a touch…

We met this character along with some others at our afternoon pit stop at 'Tjol se Gat'.

We visited this little roadside toll house two years ago when we did Ouberg Pass for the first time but in the opposite direction. We were doing well on time and thought we’d stop for a refreshment. We walked in on a local Sondag kuier (an authentic Afrikaans local gathering...) where we got to test and practice our magnificent Afrikaans.

After some good vibes with Oom (uncle) Tjol and company it was a quick drive to Sutherland for a petrol stop before turning in towards Blesfontein Guest Farm. Our destination for the

night. 

Road trip 5- Day 1 

At the Farm

We stayed in a cute little cottage which had everything we needed and a nice braai place inside.

Before the sun set, we cracked a beer and took a walk into the veld where we very luckily saw a spotted eagle owl along with some other beautiful birds!

The farm is home to a herd of about 20 alpacas! Cute! If you have ever spent time around alpacas, you’ll know they are very entertaining animals to watch with their poofy bums and sexy hairstyles.

We were surprised to learn that they keep them for the protection of the other farm animals. They won’t hesitate to go after a baboon or even a leopard! We have a newfound respect for alpacas; they are not only cute but pretty badass too!

We set to prepping some food straight away before joining the host for some stargazing. 

We didn’t realise until we were clothed up in all the layers we had and out under the starry sky that there was a huge telescope through which we would look into the cosmos. 

The host was very knowledgeable and showed us the constellation of Scorpio, the southern cross and told us many interesting things about the night sky. One of the tips we will be trying out is to look at the stars through a good pair of binoculars! On the pack list for next trip! 

After an evening of stargazing, master cooking  and wine around the fire we tucked into bed with our new furry friends (friendly cats, not alpacas).

Road trip 5- Day 2

Ouberg Pass

After another walk into the veld to get acquainted with the resident horses we packed up and began our second leg of the trip- mountain pass day! 

From Blesfontein, it is a short drive to Ouberg Pass, which begins by climbing the Roggeveld plateau with a medium incline but nothing too intense! The road was quite rough in places but no match for the Jimny, of course.

As you reach the top of the plateau, the grandeur reveals itself as you look out over the twisted road down the mountain with all the hues of brown and green over the landscape, all with the thick scent of spring flowers in the air. We, of course, had to stop and pipi nature with this view!

The descent is a lot steeper! The road is narrow, often with a sudden drop to the side, loose gravel and a steep decline. Slowly we made our way down savouring all the views and fragrances. 

At the bottom of the pass we enter the top of the Tankwa Karoo. Where we drove to link up with the R356, a section of this area that we are less familiar with than the R355. 

The road had some fun twists, turns and river crossing. a rooftop picnic with braai leftover roosterkoek (fire bread) was a must. And mighty delicious!

As the day drew on and we were nearing the dreaded section of road before ceres where the gravel turns to tar we were definitely feeling the reality of getting back to the city. We spend every moment gazing into the distant horizon, all the empty space and breathing in big gulps of the clean, dusty air.

Road trip 5- Day 12

A twist in the plan..

Just as the change to tar happened we swerved the car off the main road to stick to the dirt on the side before stopping to get out and make the last moment of the desert last just a little longer. We get out of the car, walk a few steps back towards the Tankwa and look at each other. At the same time we say “let’s go back”. So at 6pm that moment we hopped back in the Jimny, turned around and drove another 160km into the Tankwa on the R355. Needless to say or spirits were instantly lifted!! The crazy glow fro the sun setting only intensified our excitement.

Arriving at Tankwa Tented Camp always feels like arriving home. We are welcomed by friendly faces, good tunes in the pub and we decide it’s time for a sneaky shooter and a cold beer. As we’re chitchatting away, in wander some fellow spontaneous travellers.

We start chatting with them and make friends pretty quickly, although there is one move that always breaks the ice. With badly hidden smirks on our faces we tell them there is something here they just have to try! and out comes the snuff cannon.. Imagine a miniature cannon that doesn’t fire cannonballs; it shoots powdered tobacco right into your nostrils. great! You bang one end with a little hammer, and instead of a bang, you get a delightful (...) puff of snuff to inhale. It’s the most stylish way to say, “I enjoy my tobacco with a flair for the dramatic!”

After some burning nasal passages and teary eyes it definitely broke the ice.

Well into the night we decide to take a drive to the labyrinth with our newfound friend. Yes, a labyrinth in the middle of the desert. a few wrong turns and some good laughs later we find our way there and make our way through the wooden labyrinth to the top where we lay on our backs flaunting our new stargazing skills.

After this little escapade it was time for the next, we want to make our way to ritual hill. you'd think navigating this open space with few tyre tracks would be easy but after a few more twists and turns we mysteriously end up back at the camp so we decide to go on a scorpion hunt instead.

No scorpions were found, probably a bit too cold but we find our way to 'stoney beach' and the 'pool' where we brave the cold and plunge into the questionable water, kepping our toes curled and sights high. Now with big smiles and chattering teeth we had back to camp to warm up around the last coals of the fire. What an unexpected evening- the Tankwa sure keeps up on our toes.

Road trip 5- Day 3

Oh no...

As we both had work the next morning we got up before the sun, got dressed and, oh no! somehow we are locked in our tent!! Fidgeting and fiddling our way out and we are on track again. The lighting was super beautiful on our way home, we drove along the gravel road so happy with our decision to stay an other night and, oh no! We are on the reserve tank! Well, perfect opportunity to check how far we can get after that little light makes an appearance. We just made it to the petrol station in Ceres, 60km later. Great info to have for future 'oh no' moments.

From there it was the usual route home and another amazing trip in the books. Now we had two weeks to chill before the next trip. Or so we thought. Next weekend we decided a few hours before leaving at midnight to drive 800km up the east coast for one night to celebrate our friends birthday. But that is a story for another day!